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Friday, January 18, 2019

Scouting for the northern lights

Flying home after 7  days Northern Lights Voyage with Hurtigruten's MS Trollfjord, January 2019. Northbound from Bergen to Kirkenes  - Arctic Circle crossing, Polar night, Northern Lights, North Cape, Dog Sledding, and Snow Hotel.
Cruise Review and videos of our six nights :
The first day of the voyage is at the end of the blog.
We did stay one day pre-cruise in Bergen and two more days post-cruise in Kirkenes.
I'm happy to answer your questions.
Hurtigruten Northbound itinerary and timetable and Pictures of Northern Lights

It was not a Hurtigruten astronomy voyage but rather a Northbound 'Scouting for the Aurora' and sailing into the Polar Night.


Wednesday, January 16, 2019

Day 7 - Final destination Kirkenes

Kirkenes  - the 'Church on the Peninsula'.
We checked out of the cabin at 8 am and went for breakfast. Gave us plenty of time, as we had to leave the ship at 9 am. Timely arrival to Kirkenes. Disembarkation was a little slow -  we had to wait and at 9:30 am we could leave the ship. The suitcases stood on the quay and we decided instead of the Hotel transfer bus to take a taxi to the Scandic hotel. Here we got our room and then went for a walk in the city - it was quickly overlooked. The day we arrived into Kirkenes, sunrise at 10:39 - the first sunrise after 50 days with Polar night.  We stayed for two days in Kirkenes - booked three excursions - 'Aurora Express Bus', 'Snowmobile and King Crab Safari' and 'Visit to the Snow Hotel with Dinner. Review of the excursions in Kirkenes.

Hunting the Northern Lights

We did experience Northern Lights three times during our voyage.
At Lofoten the Aurora Borealis was visible from 9:00 pm in 40 minutes while we were docked in Svolvær and again two hours later when sailing in the northern part of Raftsundet along Hinnøya.
Two day later for 45 minutes when we approached Berlevåg. 
At the ships all Northern Lights sightings are reported in English and German over the PA when observed.

Link to Guide 'Choose the right season for Northern Lights'.


The footage in the video is still photos from the bow deck 6 and upper deck 9 of MS Trollfjord.

Link to page with more pictures.

Hurtigruten Daily Program

Link to Daily Program (Dagsprogram) for the Northbound sailing from Bergen to Kirkenes:
Daily Program Day 2, Daily program Day 3, Daily Program Day 4Daily Program Day 5, Daily program Day 6, - Arrival Kirkenes (disembarkation)
Link to map and Northbound itinerary

 Link to MS Trollfjord information

All activities on the ship including Northern Lights are announced in English and German languages. Remember to activate the PA in the Cabin by the phone.

Tuesday, January 15, 2019

Stateroom 691 & Tour of the Ship

We have booked stateroom 691 -  Category Q - Mini Suite at deck 6 - window view (no balcony), with seating area, television, kettle, tea/coffee, internet access, mini bar and sleeping area with double bed - size of 215 sq ft.

 Cabin Q2-691...
.... mini suite at deck 6...
...ready for the Journey.

A video tour of the cabin:
Tour of the Ship

Day 6 - North Cape and Northern Lights

Brunch was  served from 10:30 am - lunch was cancelled due to early start of the excursions. At 11:15 am we arrived in Honningsvåg - a long stop.
Just after arrival our excursion to North Cape started. It's polar night - the sun doesn't rise - it wasn't quite dark, but almost twilight at lunchtime. We drove through a very beautiful snow-covered landscape - everything was white - no gravel / salt cars had been "destroying" the impression. The road turned upwards - a total of 330 meters above sea level lies North Cape on a plateau. We walked around in the area about one and a half hours - the snow was fresh and about 40 cm deep. Back at the bus at 01:45 pm it was now much darker. At 3 pm we departed from Honningsvåg.
3:30 pm a lecture on 'Norwegian Outdoor Life' and at 6:00 pm there was a short movie: "Vardø and the Pomor Trade".

North cape at noon
Driving back at 2 pm
Departure from Honningsvåg 3 pm

The rest of the afternoon, we were reading  - got a gin tonic at the bar before it was time for dinner at 7 pm. It was 'Arctic Buffet' with lots of sea delicacies - including salmon, crayfish, freshly caught shrimp and crabs. After dinner we packed suitcases and had gone to bed, when it was announced at about 10 pm that there were northern lights. We quickly put on the warm clothes, mounted the camera on the tripod and went up on deck 9. The ship was in port at Berlevåg. The Northern Lights were almost in zenith, were very nice and with great activity. When we were to photograph we were a little "bothered" by the moon and the smoke from the ship's chimney. At about 11 pm we went back to the cabin with lots of pictures on the memory card.


Lights above the ship
White smoke from the chimney
High in the sky

North Cape excursion

January 15th we had an Hurtigruten excursion to North Cape (Norwegian: Nordkapp), a 307 m high cliff (1,007 ft) with a large flat plateau on top, on the northern coast of the island of Magerøya in Norway, and views of the Barents Sea to the north.
At the plateau of North Cape a big Globe, Children of the World sculpture and the North Cape Hall. 
North Cape Hall visitor centre, built in 1988 includes a café, restaurant, post office, souvenir shop, a small museum, and video cinema. 
The European route E69 highway has its northern terminus at North Cape, which makes it the northernmost point in Europe that can be accessed by car. It is possible to visit North Cape during winter, but when there is heavy snow and wind, the last stretch of road is only open for convoy driving at certain times. 

Monday, January 14, 2019

Day 5 - Tromsø and Dog Sledding

Tired after the nightly experiences with Northern Lights, we decided to drop off breakfast and get up a little later and have lunch already at 11:30 am. We made it in Finnsnes at 11:00 am and here sunrise at 11:16 and already sunset again at 12:37 am - a very beautiful sight - then we sailed into the polar night.
At 11 am a presentation on 'Survival in the Arctic - flora and fauna'. At 2:15 pm we arrived in Tromsø, the capital of the Arctic Ocean - today's long stop.

Dog Sledding Excursion
After a short bus ride of 30 minutes we were out in the open landscape where the adventure had to begin. In the past few days, some snow had fallen, it was almost windless and about 8 degrees frost - the best possible conditions for a dog sled ride. We got waterproof warm boots and a windproof suit and were quickly assigned a sledge driver with a 10-dog bucket - Alaskan Huskies.

Sunrise at 11:16 am
Sunset atl 12:37 am
Sunset behind the mountains
The dogs were all terrified to come out running - they barked and shouted, teased their tails and rolled in the snow and jumped around. We were no. 2 sled in the first group of about 15 sledges who drove off. In addition to the fields in the most beautiful landscape with glistening snow and a view of the sea towards Tromsø. The trip lasted about 45 minutes and afterwards we greeted the dogs and served coffee / tea and chocolate cake in a Sami lavvo (Tent). Bus back to the ship - and 10 min after arrival at 6:30 pm we continued out sailing northbound.
For dinner, we got celery soup, fried char (Arctic salmon) and more chocolate cake.

Ready for the adventure
...but are the dogs?
The dogs are now ready


... on the road
through the 'wildness'
.. Thank you for a good job


Sunday, January 13, 2019

Day 4 - Bodø and Lofoten

We woke up for a day that turned out to be more exciting than we thought.
The day started with breakfast, followed by lunch, reading, knitting and some photography of the sceneries we passed. Today was the first day when the landscape was covered with snow.
At 7:10 am we crossed the Arctic Circle, and at 10:15 am it was celebrated on the open deck in snow and cold weather by the captain and Njord (The Nordic version of King Neptune). 

We all got certificates confirming the Arctic Circle crossing.
Long stop at 12:30 - 3:00 pm in Bodø.

At 3:15 pm there was a lecture: 'How the Norwegian Fjord Landscape was formed' and again a 'Get to know Norway' presentation at 5:00 pm.
The evening dinner was vegetarian. At 8:40 pm it was announced that there was observed Northern Lights from the bridge. We hurried to put on the warm clothes and went on deck. It lasted about 40 min while we were at the quay in Svolvær and were very nice with high snow-covered mountains as a background.
We sailed through the beautiful and narrow strait of Raftsundet - and made a stop at the mouth of Trollfjord where the ship's projectors illuminated the fjord.
A very spectacular view with the snow and the steep rocky walls illuminated by the ship's spotlights.


10 minutes past midnight there was again reported Northern Lights. We stood in the bow in biting cold weather about 45 min and saw the northern lights come undulating and evolve from almost nothing to very, very nice. We finished the late evening with a hot cup of tea.

See post with pictures from Northern Lights and Trollfjord illumination below.



Sunset 3 pm at Bodø
Spotlights illuminates...
... Trollfjorden

Arctic Circle Celebration

January 13, 2019 at 07:10 am MS Trollfjord crossed the Arctic Circle. The position of the Arctic Circle is not fixed; as of 13 January 2019, it runs 66°33′47″ north of the Equator. 
Njord, Ruler of the sea and winds in Norse mythology blessed all the passengers "May good luck and happiness follow you on the voyage and forever after". 
This tradition involves the captain of the ship ladles ice water down the back of the passengers.
Inside the Arctic Circle it was Polar Night.

Njord and Arctic Circle Celebration...
.. continuing into the Polar Night.

Svolvær - Northern Lights


The sky was clear and just before arrival into Svolvær at Lofoten we saw the Northern Lights at 8:40 pm - the lights were visible for 40 minutes.



Trollfjord illuminated by Night

At 11 pm as MS Trollfjord entered the 100m-wide mouth of Trollfjord, while spotlights picked out the 1,000m-high cliffs that soared into the Arctic darkness.
From May through October. Hurtigruten ships does sail into trollfjord (wether permitting) both northbound and southbound. During winter the ships does sail to the mouth of Trollfjord and illuminate the fjord by the ships spotlights.

Trollfjord illumination (winter sailings)
Trollfjord sailing during summer

Saturday, January 12, 2019

Day 3 - Trondheim

During the night the sea was very calm. 
We docked in Trondheim at 6 am in pouring rain. The long stop of today with possible excursions. I followed MS Spitsbergen when she sailed away at 10:00 am.
At noon we left Trondheim - we followed the Sail Away from the panoramic lounge in the ship's bow. 
1:30 pm a presentation on 'Lights and Navigation' by the captain and at 3:45 pm a presentation on 'Aurora Borealis'. Presentations were in English and German languages (Separate presentations).
At 7:00 pm time dinner - soup, Norwegian salmon and fromage. 
At 8:45 pm we arrived in Rørvik and sailed again at 9:15 pm. We got a cup of tea while we watched the sail away from Rørvik.
 
Trondheim sail Away
MS Spitsbergen sail away from Trondheim

Friday, January 11, 2019

Day 2 - Måløy to Molde

It blew a lot Friday and on the day's route we were in open waters twice - we had to secure everything that could overturn. In the morning when we passed Stadthavet Sea from Måløy to Torvik - considered the most dangerous area along the coast of Norway, and again in the evening when we passed Hustadvika between Molde to Kristiansund - another dangerous part of the Norwegian coast. The dinner time was moved two hours earlier so dinner could be finished before we got out into the open water after Molde. The rest of the sailing was sheltered by islets and small islands. At 10:45 am there was a photo presentation of the excursions and hikes and at 4:30 pm a 'Get to know Norway' presentation by the Expedition team onboard.
The day's long stop was in Ålesund. 
Nice dinner - Capaccio of Clipfish, Salted leg of Lamb and Caramelized apples with ice cream. See more about food here. For the meals we bought wine by the glass - some good premium wine were offered in the price range of NOK 100 to 150 (however much more expensive wines).
Video from the sailing along the coast.

Thursday, January 10, 2019

MS Trollfjord Departure from Bergen

Some claim that it always rains in Bergen. It's just almost right. It at least rains slightly in 242 of the year's 365 days,- from September to March it’s raining between 15 and 21 days per month. Our day in bergen were one of these 'wet days'. Did visit the major sights including Bryggen Wharf (UNESCO Heritage Site). Watched MS Trollfjord arriving into Bergen at 2:30 pm. 
We did go to the terminal when check-in started at 4:00 pm - already a very long queue. Did queue for an hour. We had booked a mini suite. Once on the ship a special waiting room at deck 9 with snacks and drinks for suite guests. 
Cabins were ready at 6:00 pm. Open seating for dinner buffet from 6:00 to 9:00 pm. Long queue for the restaurant until 8:30 pm - when we finally got a table the plates at the buffet were almost empty and staff did start to clan the buffet. Managed to get some smoked salmon, herrings and cheese - not the best start of the cruise. 
Departure at 10:00 pm - nice views of the sail away from the upper deck. 

MS Trollfjord Arrival into Bergen at 2:30 pm
MS Trollfjord Bergen Sail Away at 10 pm

Wednesday, January 9, 2019

From Copenhagen to Bergen

The journey has started.
We flew from Copenhagen to Bergen - directly with SAS. Took the light rail from the airport to the city Centre. We had booked 'The Hanseatic Hotel' which is located in one of the old houses at Bryggen.

Sunday, January 6, 2019

Planned Excursions

We had planned some excursions. Lots of snow and calm weather at the destinations. 
Ship excursions in Tromsø: dog sledding on the island Kvaløya, visit to North Cape from Honningvåg.

In Kirkenes we did book Snowmobile & King Crab safari as well as Visit to the Snowhotel vit Dinner from local tour providers.  Review of the Ship excursions included in Cruise review - link to review of Kirkenes Excursions.

Thursday, January 3, 2019

Aurora Forecast


Aurora Alerts Apps

I have installed some Aurora Alerts Apps on my smartphone where I can  monitor real-time auroral activity and get push alert if there may be visible aurora borealis (northern lights)  - in addition to the short term alert a long-term aurora forecast as well as weather conditions and moon illumination will be available in the app.
 
At least the app's will provide some guidance.

Wednesday, January 2, 2019

What is Northern Lights

There are two names for the Northern Lights depending on the aurora on the northern or southern hemispheres. 
On the northern hemispheres it's Aurora Borealis while the southern lights is Aurora Australis  - both  are caused by the same phenomena.

The aurora is caused by particles from the sun striking atoms in earth’s atmosphere. These solar particles called “solar wind” are expelled by the sun all the time, and the atmosphere protects us from the particles. When the solar particles hits the atmosphere, oxygen and hydrogen atoms light up, emitting colours like green, red, purple, and white.

Monday, September 3, 2018

Review of my Midnight Sun Cruise, June 2017


In June 2017 I were on a Hurtigruten 'Midnight Sun Cruise' - link to review with pictures and videos  - with Hurtigruten M/S Kong Harald - three nights from Bodø to Kirkenes, June 10 to 13, 2017. The picture to the left is taken at 01 am with sun right north. We had chosen the northernmost part of the trip from Bodø to Kirkenes for 3 nights in order to experience the Midnight Sun. We were on two excursions: Highlights in Lofoten from Stamsund to Svolvær' and 'Bird Safari in Honningvåg'.
Also a link to page with 12 videos - highlights from the cruise Midnight Sun Cruise.